Step 1 of 4

Bloom the whole spice, then build the masala

Heat the oil in a large pot over a medium heat and add the cumin seeds. When they sizzle and darken, after about 30 seconds, add the onions and a teaspoon of the salt and cook for 12 minutes until deep golden. Stir in the ginger and garlic for a minute.

— Twelve minutes on the onions, not five. Pale onions give a thin, watery curry; properly browned ones give the sweetness the whole dish rests on.