Step 2

Bring the milk and bay leaves slowly to the boil in a large saucepan, then take the pan off the heat and leave the bay to steep for 15 minutes. Lift the leaves out and discard them.

Step 3

Drop the butter and flour into the infused milk and set the pan back over low heat. Whisk without stopping for about 6 minutes, working the whisk into the corners, until the sauce is thick and glossy.

Step 4

Scrape the sauce into a large bowl and beat in the mustard, a pinch of cayenne, the grated Gruyère and the egg yolks until smooth.

Step 5

Whisk the egg whites in a scrupulously clean bowl until they just hold a soft peak, and stop there, before they turn dry and grainy.

Step 6

Fold the whites into the cheese base in three additions, cutting down through the mixture and lifting rather than stirring, so you keep the air you just whisked in. Divide between the ramekins.

Step 7

Lay a slice of goat cheese on each one, sit the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake for 20–25 minutes. They should be well risen and springy, with no wobble left at the center.

Step 8

Let them cool for about 15 minutes, then run a small knife round the inside of each ramekin and turn the soufflés out. Sit them upside down on a tray, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to three days or freeze for a month.

Step 9

To finish, heat the oven again to 400°F. Arrange the soufflés in a shallow baking dish, lay the remaining goat cheese slices on top and pour the cream around them. Bake for 8–10 minutes until golden, and serve at once with dressed spinach.